Monday, December 14, 2009

insalata caprese

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Stop throwing out your Parmigiano-Reggiano rind.

Here’s one idear to save the parm:




Add to water and large tapioca.





Simmer until tender.

The tapioca has a textural chew similar to fresh mozzarella.

Roll in powdered basil crackers.

Roll in dehydrated heirloom black tomatoes.




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basil, tomato, parm tapioca

pomegranate balsamic




Tuesday, December 1, 2009

root beer smoke

I was bread and spread a few clicks from the original Dr. Pepper plant. The Dr. is my personal go-to soda, that is, when I partake in soda. It’s just a fact that’s hard wired in my cellular memory. Although, when I think of ingrained mentalgasms, especially in the world of soda, I have to go back to my Grandma’s café where the glass soda bottles were placed on massive blocks of ice in the real live ice box, which was as long as the 50 foot bar. Inside, awaited circusly good, ice crystal laden bottles of Nehi, RC and Frostie Root Beer. An icy cold Frostie, with frost sliding down the bottle, on a 110 F (plus humidity) Texas summer day, with cicadas rattling in the live oak trees, and a smoker effusing smoke whilst brisket and the such chrysalised in its belly, makes for a really really really good memory.

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Adding soda to your BBQ goes way back. Basting and mopping your slow & low masterpieces kept them from drying out, while recycling flavor back into the meat. Many times, when engaged in this 4-16 hour process, one became languid and/or drunk and used whatever lubricant that you where holding in your hand. Born was blissful flavor combinations. Many angelic moments have been evoked through the art of smoke since then. And unto your beloved grace, Archangel Frostie, this one’s for you.




root beer imbibement of apple and cherry chips



soak overnight









root beer smoked venison backstrap harvested 200 yards from the house
root beer-bourbon-cranberry sauce
smoked puya chiles
root beer chips
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torch chips just before service




Thursday, November 26, 2009

love day…everyday…from now on

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Thanks for giving Y'all,
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Perhaps we could be this grateful everyday of the year! Bliss to every heart on the planet, without judgment or conditions, forever.....



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Live your divinity always,
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Uwe
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Tuesday, November 3, 2009

charcuterie-o-rama au quebec

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intensement ENRAGE!!!!!
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1/2 kilo of regis herves' famous lamb creton from my engagement dinner
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real bread, herves' lamb creton, fresh coriander seeds



beer pate was ultra tasty



pork belly, liver sausage, unbelievable ham





strongolino-wine cured dry sausage- amazing complexity




this is where I oozed into a puddle




it's not what it looks like- this is a suisse sausage: pork, bacon and emmenthaler that has been smoked until a charred look is composed. grilled and served on ultra fresh real french baguette with sweet-spicy mustard. this is a texas love letter.




fresh sausages to-go:
suisse
knackwurst
merguez petite
tourguez
provencale
agneau souvlaki

Monday, October 19, 2009

les saveurs oubliées

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Last weekend was the best weekend in the Universe, ever. I was 6 hours deep into Quebec, deliquescing in a Chateau in La Malbaie overlooking the St. Lawrence Seaway. I got up, slipped into the car and began leisurely meandering through the sublimely neon gold/evergreen coastal mountains, dotted with circa 1700’s French farm houses, barns, moose and trout emboldened lakes. Scenically stoned, I had reached the boat launch, already primed/sated. Of the boats cruising around the fjord and seaway, the one with the five big golden hearts and an arrow going through them arrived shortly thereafter. I knew this was my boat. Forty minutes later, the boat was surrounded by seals and minke whales. Next, the second largest animals on the planet, the fin whales, appeared, twisting, smiling and showing their bellies. And then the largest and most conscious animals on our planet, the blue whales came popping up around the boat. It was at this point that I became we, for this was the moment that I proposed to my fiancé.




That evening we left the Richelieu and headed into the landscape for dinner. Racing through the Charlevoix twilight, we curiously imbued ourselves into the French insignia’d countryside and pulled up to the two silos. As we got out of the car and headed towards the farmhouse restaurant with wine bottles in hand, we heard “baaaaa” several times, confirming that we were going to have some very fresh lamb.


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This establishment was the creation of Chef Régis Hervé. Fresh. Fresh. Local. Ancient tradition. Fresh. Reality. His institution is called Les Saveurs Oubliées, “the forgotten taste”. He was the first in North America to create a provincial brand for his lamb, bearing its regional status from the land it was raised on, like France, Italy and Spain have been doing with their unique cheeses, hams and wine for centuries. The designation that comes from his farm is known as Charlevoix lamb.



I wanted ultra romance for my engagement dinner. I didn’t want to pay $400 for ideas tonight. I didn’t want to imagine anything. I just wanted grandma essence grounded in love. I wanted to experience the soul food completeness that my grandma gave me in her café 30 years ago. I wanted to taste the offsprings of Mother Earth and Father Sky, our planet and sunshine, photosynthesis and aliveness, salinity and terrior. Not in search of, but found. Not what’s next out there, but what’s eternal in here. Cuisine that holds you in its arms and whispers to you that you’re home. We came to the perfect place.

To sprinkle more romance on the evening, no one spoke English. Parts of the menu and everything said around us was mostly shrouded in that mysterious curiosity. It was all about leaving one of the senses behind, communicating in another gear and letting it all go. And what serendipitously emerged from the lingual fog, came the best meal I’ve had in five years.

First came the bread. The crusty caramelized array of country bread. It arrived with a tour of fresh butter, mint-late harvest white wine gelee, pepper-pear sweet & sour compote and the creton. Creton is a country style pate that is coarse and spreadable. It’s usually made entirely from pork and pork fat. You might as well call the person you buy it from your dealer, because this stuff is straight up French crack. Although, the first bite of this version sent me reeling down another canal of ecstasy. This my friend, was fresh lamb creton. To sum it up in early 80’s vernacular: Word.

I didn’t take pictures of the meal because I didn’t dare encroach on anything that would unplug me from my omnipotent juiciness of unison called my engagement dinner. But this is what was on the menu and nourishing our cells:


pan seared farm lamb’s liver
farm lamb merguez, onion confit, cranberry conserve

foie gras torchon
toasted pumpkin-anise brioche, violet-chablis gelee,
spiced black salt, calvados

onion-tomato soup
duck and chicken renderings, chervil

crispy duck breast
cassis-pear gastrique

farm lamb chops grilled with farm herbs
pear-cardamom chutney

fresh farm goat’s cheese cake
farm raspberry glaze, farm blackberries

warm orchard apple pie
flakiest crust on the planet, farm cape gooseberries, warm anglaise

We were the last ones to leave the restaurant and I asked if there was any way that I could purchase some of the chef’s ayahuasca hallucination style lamb creton. After a few communication vollies with the chef, he reappeared and asked if I wanted a kilo of it. I knew right then and there it was officially a drug. I opted to go halvsies with him. A few moments later, I left the restaurant with my fiancé, a big ass smile and a demi-kilo of lamb creton.

Fin.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

whiteface mountain goat cheese

I loves me some cheese, hence another nicknomer of mine, Queso. Lately, I’ve been fondly swayed by a delicious local fromage which bolsters a ton of flavor. We all know that in America, we’re giving a handicap with having to pasteurize our cheeses, proffering a cheese that has the wildness spanked out of it. Luckily, artisan cheese makers are taking every step to entice the original spirit despite our inspection system.





Asgaard Dairy, down the street from our house, has come through with a soft ripened goat cheese channeled straight from France’s Loire Valley. Much like the Sainte Maure cylinders produced in Touraine, sans the straw running through the center, this cheese is aged to create a beautiful complexity.

Asgaard uses Alpine and Nubian goats on their farm, which garner a high butterfat content. As the cheese ages, it forms a brie like skin with a fine grey-blue dusting of edible mold. Once you cut into it, the textural circus reveals itself. You have the thin natural rind with a walnutty essence, enveloping a ring of runny, buttery, succulence surrounding a core of smooth tasting crumbly youngness that adds a touch of tartness. This is the best thing to happen to my hood in a while.

I tried not to overpower the cheese with companions. Fruit and floral tones were all that could be added, as to honor this champ.



whiteface mountain goat cheese
lavender laced rosé reduction
thai basil buds
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Although, I am giddily anticipating the hitting up of numerous cheese markets in Quebec City and Montreal in the near future, to once again, happily plunge myself into unpasteurized heaven. .
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Thursday, September 24, 2009

what's next?


Celebrate. You get to choose your next thought! Will it be happiness or grievance?

Friday, September 11, 2009

jalapeno umami

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ancient.
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simple.
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take these.
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make this.


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yummy.
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freak out (optional).
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Wednesday, September 2, 2009

steak & yard lobster

I’m proud to say that I’ve got Hypomyces. Well it’s actually something called Hypomyces lactifluorum. I’ve got a good case of the lobster mushrooms. And they’re growing in my front yard, over by the mint.






Lobster mushrooms are actually a parasite that overtakes a Russula or Lactarius shroom, converting it like that aqueous liquid metal persuasion found in such flicks as The Matrix or T2. Sans evil metallic properties, this conversion is prodigiously more blessed and most delicious.

When you sauté them in olive oil, the oil turns lobster color as well, making a vegetarian lobster oil. Deeply hued of burnt umber and meaty tasting from caramelizing the fungus, this is a byproduct that should not be left to fall between the cracks.

When one thinks lobster, up springs one 50’s style flashback scenario; the luxurious iconic duo of steak and lobster. It falls back on that era of Rat Pack svelte-ness. Adding steak for that hip, savory buzz. This time, the steak is all grilled ribeye, that’s been dehydrated and crushed.

The white powder is not a Rat Pack follow through. It’s that coconut imbued chicken fat from the previous post, gone to powder land. It adds a melting fat texture to the mouth where the steak juiciness is no longer.

As I look out across my paddock at this time of the year…I can truly say, I likes my yard.






lobster mushrooms
dehydrated beef ribeye
chicken fat powder
fig foam
mustard green blossoms
lobster mushroom oil
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Tuesday, August 18, 2009

fried chicken and watermelon

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Placing your awareness on the names fried chicken and watermelon brings forth the absolute. Completeness. In that, I don’t need to slobber or wax wordzy about two perfect gifts that have been bestowed upon this good Earth.



Git to the point: Chicken skin, coconut milk, fish sauce and sambal went sous vide’ing at 58C for 6 hours.


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Looks like a rough evening, but this is truly a new goddess of the larder. Chicken skin which has surrendered it’s renderings to the coconut milk, chiles and garlic. One fingertip embossing of this stuff, touching your tasting mechanism, leaves you totally emotional and helpless. The possibilities for this are mind melting.
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The skin, it was dehydrated and then deep fried, making a crackling, scented with coconut milk, umami and chiles. The watermelon orb is a throwback to Adria and the lineage, yet the addition of a jalapeno slice made it all so brand new and shiny to me. Served spoon style, the crispy/bursty textures couldn’t be more circus-like on the spectrum. Taste wise…it’s all…fried chicken and watermelon.
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coconut-sambal chicken crackling
watermelon-jalapeno burst
thai basil
coconut powder
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